Food &Drink : This Cinderella Is a Bell of Any Ball ; Taste Test Simon Gwyn Roberts at the Bell Pepper

Daily PostAugust 20, 2005

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Summary


HE Bell Pepper is one of those chameleon venues that have been around for a while in large British cities but are only just beginning to appear in our region. You know the kind of place: they undergo a Cinderella-like transformation after dark, and magically warp from greasy spoon to gourmet restaurant.

It's a clever idea, although getting the formula right must tax even the shrewdest business brain. I've been to London butty bars that become critically acclaimed Thai restaurants in the evening and wondered how they do it. Does the kitchen equipment change? Do the chefs swap places at some given time?

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Food &Drink : This Cinderella Is a Bell of Any Ball ; Taste Test Simon Gwyn Roberts at the Bell Pepper

Whatever they do, the tactics seem to work, and the Jekyll and Hyde nature of the venues lends a certain frisson to the dining experience.

Common to all of these places is an appealing informality, and the Bell Pepper is no ex...

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